surfing (197)

Back to Beach to Pick Up Surfboard

Got up at 6 this morning, got to Limantour Beach around 7 and started the 2-mile beach trek to pick up my surfboard. For how it got there (I buried it in the sand 2 weeks ago), click here and here. I put my 2-wheel surfboard carrier in a backpack so I wouldn’t have to drag it after me. Here are pics of it. I had marked the spot in the lee of a north/south sand dune with 2 pieces of driftwood. Everythng was as I left it. 2 miles back to truck, enjoying many birds and a few sea lions in surf zone.

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Crabs, Eels, and Salmon

Caught 2 eels Friday, plus these nice little rock crabs (with 20′-long bamboo poke pole). Then I got a 10-lb. salmon from local fisherman (who says there are salmon up and down the coast right now—yahoo!). I smoked salmon and eels.

   Went surfing Saturday, too many people for me. That’s one thing that really was good about the ’50s: uncrowded waves. Think 8 feet and glassy at Steamer Lane, 4 of us out. (Oh I gotta stop this!) So I did a lot of paddling Saturday, working on shoulder(s) rehab. It’s always a plus to get in the ocean, in any manner. Surfing, paddling, swimming, diving…super energy gain.

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Overcast Skies, San Francisco Morning

I’m at Ritual Roasters on Valencia Street, serious baristahood + good wi-fi. BTW, Valencia between say 18th and 22nd Streets is a vital and hip part of SF these days. Just walk along these blocks and check out the cool shops and cafes.

   The City Lights event last night was great. I’m getting overflow crowds. This book has hit a nerve — or nerves. Everyone seems to relate to it. People show it to a friend, and the friend won’t give it back. I feel honored to appear at City Lights, one of the most gutty, independent, and artistic bookstores in the world.

   I’m just going to toss out some images from yesterday, all in North Beach except for the surfing:

 

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Cowells Is Rolling

Shot this with my Canon Powershot S-95 from the pier yesterday. Not bad for such a small camera at such a distance (maybe 2-300 yards). Cowell’s has got to be the best place to learn to surf in NorCal. Forgiving waves. No slash-and -burn hotshots. And right around the corner from the mighty Steamer Lane. I stayed at a great near-the-beach motel, the Edgewater Beach on 2nd Street. It’s across the street from the pier, up on a kind of knoll, and you can actually see the surfers at Cowells from the parking lot.

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Sea Otter at Steamer Lane Yesterday

I could swear this guy had an abalone on his belly and was hammering it with a rock. Floating around just outside the wave zone, livin the good life…

“The sea otter is a secondary consumer and feeds on animals such as sea urchins, clams, mussels, mollusks, abalone, snails, crustaceans, small fish, etc. A fully grown sea otter can eat over 25% of its own body weight.”

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Sunny Morning/Coffee Artistry in Santa Cruz

Boy do I love this town! Yes, it ain’t what it was in the ’50s (what is?), but it’s got so much. A lot of it having to do with the town’s Feng Shui, perched as it is on the northern edge of the huge Monterey Bay (Monterey is at the southern edge). There’s a clarity in the air from the ocean. Colors vibrant. That extra warmth we don’t have in the San Francisco zone that allows for the occasional avocado tree, and better corn and tomatoes.

This temple or whatever has been here (West Cliff Drive neighborhood) for at least 60 years.

There’s that Southern Cal vibe. I’ve always felt that southern California starts in South San Francisco. The further south you go, the warmer things get, and the looser. It’s just more relaxed. More fun where the livin’ is easy. Skateboarders flying all over town. Surfers out everywhere yesterday. A town of serious cycling. This morning I’m at the ultra-cool Verve Roasters, 816 41st Ave, serious barista folk, good wi-fi connection (pic below). That’s a Hungarian wild cherry pastry there. In same block on 41st is the Cliff Cafe, great breakfast, the Freeline Surf Shop, The Santa Cruz Skate Shop, Pink Godzilla Sushi — lively hood just a few blocks from the Hook.

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Back in the Water

4 to 5 months ago I slipped stepping off a ladder, spun around, and stuck my arm out to absorb the blow — acute shoulder pain. I lay there thinking, just how bad is this? Well, pretty bad, not so much in the severity of the injury, but in the time it’s taking to heal.* But finally, it’s getting better bit by bit. I’ve gone to an acupuncturist, a traditional Chinese massage guy, a great physical therapy lady, and done light shoulder exercises when I can remember them during these busy times. Trying to avoid surgery.

   I’ve found during the course of many injuries over the years, that you get to a point where you’re not making any progress, and you have to push a little into the pain zone with rehabilitation. The trick is to work the injured area enough to get circulation going and repairs started, but not screw things up even more.

   So, feeling a bit better, I went surfing last night, and it was a thrill to be back in the water for the first time in four months. I only got one ride, and that was on my knees (more than a bit rusty), but it was a start. Getting into the ocean in any manner whatsoever gets the chi flowing.

*I heard a comedian one day talking about how fast young people heal. He said when you’re 18, you can get fairly badly hurt, then stand in front of the mirror and watch yourself heal.

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Hiace 1996 2.8L Diesel Surfer Van Sleeps 4 – New Zealand

“Sleeps 2 down below and 2 kids up above. It has roof-racks for surf/paddleboards, gas/240volt fridge, cooker, sink,water pump, 20l fresh, 20l grey, stereo with ipod aux, power, solar panel, house battery for interior lights, etc. With 177,700kms on clock and runs like a dream. Cruises at 100kph easily and drives around like a car. Uses no oil. Always serviced and lives up to Toyota’s reputation.…” https://shltr.net/yDkpjC

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