ocean (165)

Surfer’s Journal Article

I’ve always enjoyed Surfer’s Journal. It’s a class act in the surfing world. The magazine was started by Steve and Debbee Pezman in 1992, and was completely different from other surfer magazines. Bi-monthly, with minimal advertising; supported by readers, not newsstand sales; great photos and production values; “more book than magazine.”

About six months ago, Steve Pezman and photographer Leo Hetzl spent three days with us, doing this interview and shooting photos. It’s a real honor. They gave me permission to make this PDF of the article. Check out the other articles in this issue: www.surfersjournal.com/current-issue

The PDF can be downloaded or viewed from here.

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Big Surf at Makaha, Circa 1953

Jim Fisher, a powerful swimmer, was on the Lowell High School (San Francisco) swim team in the early 1950s. The first time I ever went swimming in the ocean was when Jim and I went across the Great Highway from Fleishhacker Pool after a swimming meet, and went body surfing. It changed my life — the blue sky, the blue water, the waves…

After graduation, Jim went to Hawaii and, along with other haole California surfers, surfed the biggest waves they could find. I realize that this photo is blurred and scratchy, but It’s one of my favorite surf shots. There’s just something about it that grabs you. Jim said he almost drowned on the wipeout that ensued.

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