ocean (166)

A Night on the Beach

Spent first night after Equinox on beach in this beautifully constructed little shack. Had a wooden floor!
I like the ephemerality of beach shacks. It’s always a surprise to see them, and they’re never there for long.

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Surfer’s Journal Article

I’ve always enjoyed Surfer’s Journal. It’s a class act in the surfing world. The magazine was started by Steve and Debbee Pezman in 1992, and was completely different from other surfer magazines. Bi-monthly, with minimal advertising; supported by readers, not newsstand sales; great photos and production values; “more book than magazine.”

About six months ago, Steve Pezman and photographer Leo Hetzl spent three days with us, doing this interview and shooting photos. It’s a real honor. They gave me permission to make this PDF of the article. Check out the other articles in this issue: www.surfersjournal.com/current-issue

The PDF can be downloaded or viewed from here.

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