Surf has been huge. Triple overhead at Kelly’s cove in SF yesterday, no one could get out. I went down to the beach this morning, very high tide. Three of my neighbors were down there, including fisherman Josh, and we watched the water pouring into the lagoon like mad, waves pounding out in the channel. Josh reminisced about when Jerry Dunn flipped his boat going out. “He tried to turn around and the wave tore the cabin off…”
Tide was high, tricky to get to the high sand area of the beach, so I made a dash for it. Ulp! Miscalculation. Waves washing in, getting higher and higher, up to my knees, and also logs and lots of flotsam bouncing around. Small log whacked my ankle. Please, Madame Ocean, I prayed, don’t slam me against that wall in front of these people. Luckily I made it through, my sweatpants soaked up to the crotch.
I wandered around on what little sand there was. All kinds of driftwood, ocean actively ripping up piers right now. Surfers getting the occasional good ride, abut mostly hammered.
Couldn’t go back the way I came, so I walked to the other end of the beach. There’s a seawall you have to run by to get to the opening shown above. Made it!