surfing (197)

Shelter Serra skating bowl at Chelsea Piers skate park

Twins Shelter and Ivory Serra were born in Bolinas 35 or so years ago and now live in NYC. (They’re sons of my longtime friend Tony Serra.) I hang out with them a bit every time I go to New York. When I was there for the book convention in late May, we went down to the new skate park on the Hudson. I got Shelter to strap my G0Pro Helmet Hero video camera onto his helmet as he made one round around the park and into and out of the bowl. Hang on!

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Mudbath in lagoon

A few nights ago I went for a paddle late on a foggy afternoon. The wind had been blowing for about a week, and the water was really cold. I paddled down one of the channels to a spot where there’s black, oozy mud on the bottom. I didn’t feel like a 100% mud bath, so stopped and plastered my face. The stuff smells of deep ocean and sea minerals and is like glue. I left it on my face for a few minutes and had a bit of panic because my eyes felt glued shut. Then rinsed it off. My skin felt alive.

Here’s a post  about mud baths (with pix) from a few years ago: https://www.lloydkahn.com/2008/07/13/paddleboard-and-kayaklow-tide-lagoonmud_13/

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Gettin back home

Much as I love NYC, there’s no place like…. I got into San Francisco around noon on Monday. (JetBlue v. cool airline.) Cruised by Ocean Beach (surf blown out, but kite surfers stylin), got latte, coffee cake at Trouble Coffee, then headed for home. On my way over the mountain, I stopped at the creek, jumped in the pool, floated over to let the waterfall pound on my head. Cold water like a slap in the chops from Mount Tamalpais. OK, so I’ve mentioned this before…

When I got home, there was this little halibut caught by fisherman Andrew, part of which we had with store potatoes and salad from the garden.

The next night I went running along the coast, then on the way back on an inland trail, stopped off at the secret swimming hole, a somewhat-hidden pond in a little valley. It’s lined with cattails, and protected from the wind so the water is like glass. I slipped in and swam across, there were birds swooping and singing all over the place. This is a blessed, magic planet, still alive in places here and there. Back to the pub for a pint of local Lagunitas pale ale. About 9 PM, headed home along the coast, listening to blues and country rock on Sirius radio, looking out at the sea and the still-darkening horizon.

It’s been raining lightly off and on, very unusual in June. When the sun came out yesterday, the honeybees were all over the poppies.

Columnist Jon Carroll, about the best part of the San Francisco Chronicle these days, closed a recent column with this poetry by Bob Dylan:

Don’t the moon look good, mama
Shinin’ through the trees?
Don’t the brakeman look good, mama
Runnin’ down the Double E
Don’t the sun look good
Goin’ down over the sea?
Don’t my gal look fine
When she’s comin’ after me?

If you are of a certain age and inclination, do you have Dylan/Stones/Beatles lyrics engraved in yr. brain, and know when you hear the first note, what the song will be?

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Chubby Mitchell walking the nose in Santa Cruz

Chubby was about 5’7″ and weighed 285 pounds. He, George Kovalenko, and I lived in a couple of small cabins on Moran Lake, near Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz in 1955. This was the year of the Big Flood (water over the parking meters on the main street, 3 bridges washed out). The floods deposited a sand bar at the Rivermouth and there were Rincon-type waves there in the Spring. Chubby was a pure Hawaiian, a football player, and in spite of his bulk, a good surfer. Here he’s gracefully walking to the nose at the Rivermouth that year.

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100+ Photos of Huge Waves at Mavericks Contest

The S. F. Chronicle has 100+ photos of the contest last week.

“Ion Banner tries to catch a wave, but eventually wipes out on this one in the first heat. Surfers from around the globe braved the 50-foot-high swells at Mavericks Surf Contest in Half Moon Bay, Calif., on Saturday, February 13, 2010. Chris Bertish of South Africa was selected the winner.”

Photo: Carlos Avila Gonzalez / The Chronicle

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Mud Bath Au Local/Fresh Halibut

Friday I worked on my (irregular) email newsletter GIMME SHELTER most of the day (slow writer) and around 6 took my paddleboard down to the lagoon. Incoming tide, headed into one of the secret side channels, maybe 25′ wide’ winding thru mudflats and pickleweeed. No soul in sight. Gliding along prone, @water level, get v. close to birds. Elegant egrets, wary blue herons, cloud of red-wing blackbirds at one point. Water warm from day’s sunshine, headed into small side channel, gliding thru cordgrass. Pulled board up on mudflats, stripped and coated every part of my body I could reach with gooey black mud that was pungent with ocean & sea minerals. Dried a bit in wind, then jumped in deeper channel to wash mud off. paddled back to dock and here was fisherman Andrew, pulling in with 4 fresh halibut. I bought a 7-pounder, brought home and filleted. Great evening at seashore.

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Joe Bark Paddleboards

“Joe Bark does not have down time. The Palos Verdes shaper/ /firefighter/freediver/spearfisher/father/surfer/paddler/boardbuilder/husband/harbor patrolman doesn’t get much time to sit back and relax. Not that he’d want to. No, Joe is a study in constant motion, in fusing work and life and passion into one all-day marathon of doing what you love. And what Joe Bark loves is the ocean. Everything flows from there.”

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