Article in today’s New York Times by Kim Severson
“BEFORE Alice Waters picked her first Little Gem lettuce and Wolfgang Puck draped smoked salmon across a pizza, California cuisine meant something else.
“The other California cuisine was being served on a million patios in the Golden State by relaxed cooks who grilled thick cuts of beef called tri-tip and built salads from avocado and oranges. They used red chili sauce like roux, ate abalone and oysters, and whipped sticky dates into milkshakes. It was the food of the gold rush and of immigrants, of orchards and sunshine.…
“‘What Sunset has done really well is reflect the changes in the way people in the West live,’ said Barbara Fairchild, who will retire as editor in chief of Bon Appétit in November. ‘It’s a style of living and cooking that really is different.’ She moved from the East Coast to Los Angeles with her family in the 1960s. It was the first time she had ever seen an artichoke or an avocado. Her father began grilling over the big built-in brick barbecue while the children cooled off in the above-ground pool.
“Dinners, especially in the summer, were salads. Red meat gave way to chicken or fish — quite a radical departure for many family menus then.…”
How about Sunset’s corporate headquarters? Photo by Heidi Schumann for the NY Times