Silver Surfer

To tell the truth, I’ve felt pretty shitty for almost 2 months. Maybe something I caught on the airplane coming back from Hawaii. My chi’s been flatlining.

WELL, I’ve finally come out of it and yesterday I went surfing—for the 2nd time in 3 months—on the Sonoma coast. Windy, just a few guys out, robust swell. Had my 10′ Haut 3-fin Surftech board. Got 2 rides, the first a late takeoff and I proned it—fun!— then shakily got to my feet riding the foam. Pretty feeb. 2nd ride I kneeled. Hey, I’ll take whatever I can get.

The hard thing for old guys is going from paddling to upright. Once I’m up I’m fine, but right now my getting up is not a pretty sight. Gonna work on it.

BUT my energy level is off the charts. The magic of the Pacific Ocean…

Every time I drag myself out into the world and get physical, I feel great. Well, duh!

14 Responses to Silver Surfer

  1. Anonymous says:

    not sure if you check your facebook inbox often but I have written you several messages …..please let me know that you have seen them ….thank you!

  2. Anonymous says:

    Vamos Lloyd, espero que estes al 100% pronto, get well soon. Pura Vida! From baja

  3. Lloyd Kahn says:

    1st Anonymous,
    I don't look at Facebook hardly at all. Just not enough time. We've set it up to pick stuff up off my blog. Send messages as comments here.

  4. That's one great picture!

  5. Anonymous says:

    looking good, Lloyd, and much glad you found the surfing energising….

  6. Jen says:

    This made me smile~ great pic! Glad your chi is on the rise!

  7. Anonymous says:

    Check out this Inflatable Car

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  8. Lloyd Kahn says:

    Inflatable car — April Fool's!

  9. Anonymous says:

    yup, happy April Fool's

  10. Anonymous says:

    You're sexy.

  11. Christopher says:

    Lloyd,

    Thanks for sharing your life experiences with us. It is always a privilege to read your words.
    I am glad your chi is up and you are feeling good again.

    Reading “ the hard thing for old guys is going from paddling to upright” did put a smile on my face… as in my book the shape you are in is just amazing, and the hard thing for a lot of old guys is not going from paddling to upright on a surfboard but from sitting to upright on solid ground. You are in better shape than a lot of people half your age.
    I certainly do hope to be like you as I grow older.

    You are a great role model. Thank you for all that you do.
    Blessings Sir, you have all my admiration.

  12. Anonymous says:

    Stay well, dear Lloyd. This world just cannot do without you. One of a kind and looking feisty and, as always, cute as a button in that wet suit pic!!! From Anonymous Debbie.

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